Polysorbate 20

pol-ee-SOR-bate TWEN-tee

Emulsifier, Surfactant 7/10 Safety CG ApprovedControversial Semi-synthetic Vegan

What Is Polysorbate 20?

A mild non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and lauric acid. It helps solubilize essential oils and fragrances in water-based hair products.

Source: Sorbitol and lauric acid (PEGylated)

Origin: Semi-synthetic

Also known as: Tween 20, Polyoxyethylene 20 Sorbitan Monolaurate

What Does Polysorbate 20 Do to Your Hair?

Solubilizes oils, fragrances, and other oil-based ingredients in water-based formulations. Acts as a gentle emulsifier that improves product stability and ingredient distribution.

Best For

All hair types, fine hair

Not Recommended For

Sensitive scalp (rare PEG sensitivity)

Concentration Matters

0.5-5% in products

Hair Type Compatibility

1A Straight Fine
1B Straight Medium
1C Straight Coarse
2A Wavy Fine
2B Wavy Medium
2C Wavy Coarse
3A Curly Loose
3B Curly Tight
3C Curly Corkscrew
4A Coily S-Shaped
4B Coily Z-Shaped
4C Coily Tight

Method Compatibility

Curly Girl (CG) Method: Approved
CG Approved

Safety & Regulation

7/10
AvoidCautionSafe

Generally safe with low irritation potential. PEG-based compound so theoretical concern about 1,4-dioxane contamination exists, though well-manufactured products are purified. Much gentler than most surfactants.

FDA Status: Generally Recognized As Safe

FDA permits use in both food and cosmetics. Also approved as food additive.

EWG Score: 2/10

HairAide Verdict

A useful emulsifier that helps disperse fragrances and oils in water-based products. Safe for most people. Some CG methods approve it since it is water-soluble and gentle.

Products That Contain Polysorbate 20

Leave-in sprays, hair mists, curl refreshers, light conditioners

Alternatives to Polysorbate 20

If you want to avoid Polysorbate 20, look for products with these ingredients instead:

Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Oleate, Decyl Glucoside

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Polysorbate 20 safe for hair?

Yes, Polysorbate 20 has a safety rating of 7/10 and is generally considered safe for use in hair products. Generally safe with low irritation potential. PEG-based compound so theoretical concern about 1,4-dioxane contamination exists, though well-manufactured products are purified. Much gentler than most surfactants.

Is Polysorbate 20 bad for curly hair?

Polysorbate 20 is CG-method approved and is generally considered safe for curly hair.

Is Polysorbate 20 CG-method approved?

Yes, Polysorbate 20 is approved for the Curly Girl method.

What can I use instead of Polysorbate 20?

Some alternatives to Polysorbate 20 include: Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Oleate, Decyl Glucoside

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