Polyhydroxystearic Acid
pol-ee-hy-DROX-ee-stee-AIR-ik ASS-id
What Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid?
A polymeric emulsifier derived from hydroxystearic acid (castor oil derivative). It is used to stabilize water-in-oil emulsions and disperse mineral pigments in hair products.
Source: Castor oil derivative (polymerized)
Origin: Semi-synthetic
Also known as: PHSA
What Does Polyhydroxystearic Acid Do to Your Hair?
Stabilizes water-in-oil emulsions and helps disperse mineral particles evenly in formulations. Creates stable, elegant product textures. Used in formulating mineral-based products and heavy conditioning treatments.
Best For
All hair types (functional ingredient)
Not Recommended For
None known
Concentration Matters
1-5% in products
Hair Type Compatibility
Method Compatibility
Safety & Regulation
Very safe for cosmetic use. Derived from castor oil. Non-toxic, non-irritating. Has been thoroughly evaluated by the CIR expert panel and found safe as used in cosmetics.
FDA Status: Generally Recognized As Safe
FDA permits use in cosmetics without restrictions.
EWG Score: 1/10
HairAide Verdict
A safe, functional emulsifier that helps create stable product formulations. Nothing remarkable or concerning. Does its job effectively behind the scenes.
Products That Contain Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Hair treatments, heavy conditioners, mineral-containing products, styling products
Alternatives to Polyhydroxystearic Acid
If you want to avoid Polyhydroxystearic Acid, look for products with these ingredients instead:
Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, other emulsifiers
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, Polyhydroxystearic Acid has a safety rating of 8/10 and is generally considered safe for use in hair products. Very safe for cosmetic use. Derived from castor oil. Non-toxic, non-irritating. Has been thoroughly evaluated by the CIR expert panel and found safe as used in cosmetics.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid is CG-method approved and is generally considered safe for curly hair.
Yes, Polyhydroxystearic Acid is approved for the Curly Girl method.
Some alternatives to Polyhydroxystearic Acid include: Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, other emulsifiers
Get Our Free Ingredient Decoder Cheat Sheet
Take the guesswork out of reading product labels. Our printable cheat sheet helps you decode ingredients while you shop.
Check What's In Your Products
Use our free Hair Product Label Analyzer to check any product's ingredient list instantly.
Analyze My Product →